Where else but Hawaii Volcanoes National Park can you witness the creation of new earth and black sand beaches?
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park has its share of warning signs but they forgot the sign warning that addiction was imminent! One day was not enough. Two days were not enough. We continue to discuss moving to the Big Island and we call the eruption update hotline frequently—seriously. Should we be attending Lava Chasers Anonymous meetings?
There is a lot to see and do in the park and the park is always changing. Black sand beaches form and then are covered over with new lava or washed away by the sea. Fiery lava pours down the hillside visible to all and then suddenly is concealed in underground lava tubes. Roads are engulfed. Trees are engulfed. And then somewhere among all the barren lava you find a sign of life—rebirth. It is quite a life-changing experience.
OK. You’re dying to see for yourself what caused our addiction. You’re off to a good start. Use this site to help you plan your visit to the volcano. But once you get there, no matter how much you want to skip it, stop by the Kilauea Visitor Center to get the most up to date information and watch the movie.
You take the high road and I’ll take the low road and I’ll see the lava before, yee. Sorry, that song is stuck in my head (with a few modifications). Two loop roads were built in the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, the high road (Crater Rim Road loops around the Kilauea caldera) and the low road (Chain of Craters road that goes down to the sea).
Crater Rim Drive
is still an 11 mile loop but Pele, the goddess of the volcano, has buried a chunk of the
Chain of Craters Road
down by the sea. It’s been rebuilt in the past but don’t count on that happening again too soon. Madame Pele rules the roost! Now you have to turn around where the lava crossed the road.
Why did the lava cross the road? To get to the sea! That’s how new black sand beaches are formed
and check out this lava arch!
So, what should you do while you’re at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park?
If you have three hours or less you didn’t give yourself enough time to fully enjoy the volcano. But you can drive along
Crater Rim Drive
at the summit of Kilauea Volcano. This is an 11-mile road that loops around the summit caldera, through desert, lush tropical rain forest, across the caldera floor, and has well-marked scenic stops and short walks along the way.
If you have four hours, by all means take
Chain of Craters Road
. This road descends 3,700 feet in 20 miles (that’s steep) and ends where a 2003 lava flow crossed the road. If you’re lucky, you may get to see red streams of lava from the end of the road or billowing steam clouds where hot lava meets the cool ocean.
The drive down Chain of Craters Road offers pull-offs so you can enjoy absolutely gorgeous views of the ocean. You may forget for a moment that you are hunting the elusive red stuff! You can also take a short walk to see ancient Hawaiian petroglyphs carved into lava.
If you love to hike and you have the time, this is a great place for you. Lava flows change the availability of trails. Stop at the Kilauea Visitor Center to find a list of trails that are currently safe for hiking. There are also ranger guided hikes available. The Visitor Center posts these as well.
Take a look at this map from a Hawaii Volcanoes National Park brochure.
The full brochure that you can get at the Kilauea Visitor Center has all the highlights of the Crater Rim Drive and Chain of Craters Road including hikes and short walks. There is NO food, water, or fuel along the Chain of Craters Road.
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park: Get Oriented
Park Entrance: On Highway 11 there is an obvious sign marking the entrance to Hawai’I Volcanoes National Park. You’ll arrive at a typical National Park entry booth where you will need to pay $10 per car or $5 per bike, or person on foot for a 7-day pass. The Park is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week all year.
The Kilauea Visitor Center (open daily 7:45am-5pm; 808-967-7184) is just beyond the entrance. There are displays, a movie that plays every hour showing past volcanic activity up close and personal, the latest news on volcanic activity, as well as trail information. The movie showing flowing lava was so addictive, we bought a copy. I know, I know, it’s time for Lava Chasers Anonymous!
The Rangers are great. They host Ranger-escorted scenic walks and answer silly questions without cracking a smile.
Also worth a visit is the Volcano Art Center, which displays the work of Big Island photographers, artists, and craftspeople. My husband bought a rose handcrafted from palm leaves. The artisan told him that presenting the rose to me would show his undying love for me. (I heard you say, "Oh how sweet.") One of those really big really cool hand blown glass vases would have been sweet, too! All kidding aside, we bought photos and a variety of other unique souvenirs there.
If you get hungry, the only place to eat in the park is the Volcano House (808-967-7321) across the street from the art center. It is a rustic lodge built in 1941 with a huge stone fireplace, a dining room, and 37 guest rooms. We walked through the snack bar for a view of Kilauea Caldera.
In the old days, this was full of lava and yes, people stayed here in the lodge. Apparently that was before law suits and "safety first" signs were invented. Currently, the volcano is not erupting from here but from a rift zone on the flanks of Kilauea.