My all time favorite part of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is Chain of Craters Road.There is something about descending down Chain of Craters Road so far so quickly and watching the landscape change so rapidly that really gets the heart pumping. There is the anticipation of seeing something new and cool and the stark realization that the areas covered with lava, used to be teeming with life. After we finished seeing the sights along Crater Rim Drive , we gassed up the car, stopped at the restroom, packed some water and snacks, and started the long drive down Chain of Craters Road. This is a long drive with no facilities, gas stations, or concessions along the way but it offers breathtaking ocean views and the historic lava flows are amazing. The road got its name from the huge depressions along the way. 
Part way down Chain of Craters Road we saw a sign for Pu’u Loa Petroglyph Field trail at mile marker 16 and stopped to check it out. It was an easy walk that took us about a half hour or so to reach a field of etchings in lava left by early Hawaiians. There were etchings of people, boats, and animals spread over a large area of black lava. There were also lots of round depressions that are thought to be piko holes, where umbilical cords of newborns were burned. It was hot and sunny so I’m glad I brought water, sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat. There is a boardwalk around the petroglyphs to protect them from destruction. Please stay on the boardwalk. I want my children to be able to enjoy them, too! There were lots of places to pull off and take photos of the ocean. Sometimes you get to see something really cool like a steam cloud formed when the hot lava hits the cool ocean.  When you see the pull-off to see  the Holei sea arch you’ll know you’re near the end of Chain of Craters Road. Yup, this is a lava arch. How cool is that?
At the end of Chain of Craters Road we parked and walked out on the lava flow that covered the road. The road used to be a loop road until the lava blocked the road. In 1999 there was a small structure with eruption information and a pit toilet beyond which was a turn around. When we returned the next year the building was gone and the road was a bit shorter. This area is in constant flux. Maybe, maybe not. In 1999, the volcano had been spilling visible lava down the hillside of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park into the ocean for 17 years—until two weeks before our arrival! At first we were quite disappointed. But by the time we had reached the end of Chain of Craters Road we were psyched. There are so many cool things to see besides red lava.
As we walked past the end of the road, we were on the lava flow for a while, stepped down onto the asphalt road (you can see the lane dividers) and then back up onto lava.  In the distance you can see a road sign popping out of the lava. Remember to look along the water for newly formed black sand beaches.  A new beach forms when a “bench” of newly formed lava falls into the cold sea and shatters. The wave action reduces the lava shards to sand. Keep your eyes open for different types of lava. Some looks like swirls of chocolate icing, smooth and ropey. This is Pahoehoe lava. Others are rough and chunky.  This is A’a lava. And some is just plain cool!  On one journey close to an active underground flow we were lucky enough to see Pele’s hair (the goddess of the volcano). It looks like extremely fine strands of gold. When I tried to pick it up, it disintegrated. The Park Ranger told me that the hot lava bubbles and spits constantly. When the wind conditions are right, Pele’s hair forms. It’s the same principle as blown glass. We found it glimmering in crevices protected from the wind. A note of caution: take lots of water with you. The sun combined with walking on black lava will dehydrate you as if you’re in the desert. Wear a hat and sunscreen and if there is ANY POSSIBLITY that you will be on the lava after dark take one flashlight per person and some warm clothes.
Well, I guess not but before you throw caution to the wind, find out what happened to a couple who ignored the warnings! Return from Chain of Craters Road to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
|
